One wonders about the wisdom of letting him loose on landmarks. What's next? Cafe Royal Marco Pierre White?White was not the first choice as a tenant for the Criterion Three years ago, Forte installed Bob Payton there. His flagship restaurant in the Hyde Park hotel is called nothing less than the Restaurant Marco Pierre White. Without doubt, he is a brilliant cook, the youngest ever to win three Michelin stars However, he is not a modest man.

Perhaps the name should have been protected, too, because what was originally the Criterion Restaurant, then the Criterion Brasserie, has just become the Criterion Brasserie Marco Pierre White. Mr White is the celebrity chef who, as a partner rather than employee, the Forte Organisation hopes can fill the Criterion. It is an exceedingly rare room for England, much more in keeping with the neo-baroque excesses of 1870s Budapest than brick and stucco London. But in London it is, bang on the south side of Piccadilly, lurking behind a pavement populated by beggars and buskers and an unpromising frontage. Over the years, the tables and chairs have changed but the fabric of the place has remained pretty much intact - and it is a listed building. A choice corporate bauble it is too, a long, vaulted, mirrored room, lamplight glowing against its gilded ceiling. The Criterion Restaurant is 121 years old.

Originally built as a glittering status symbol for Spiers and Pond, the railway caterers, this vast London dining room is now a glittering status symbol for the Forte Organisation, the hoteliers and road-side caterers. You could also serve some very cold, very thick cream or vanilla ice-cream. Gently bring to a simmer for a minute or two on a very low heat and stir in the cream Serve warm poured over the pudding. Turn out, rest for five minutes and serve hot, with:Chocolate sauce150mls/5fl oz water150g/5oz caster sugar5 rounded tbsp cocoa powder55g/2oz bitter-sweet chocolate broken into pieces1 tbsp Kalhua, chocolate liqueur or Tia Maria2 tbsp double creamBoil together the water and sugar until dissolved into a syrup Whisk in the cocoa, chocolate and liqueur.

With a large spoon, thoroughly but carefully fold everything together. Pour into the pudding basin, cover with a round of pleated greaseproof paper and steam for two hours. Heat the milk with the vanilla pod and leave to infuse for 20 minutes until cool. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate and butter over hot water or in the microwave, as above.

Separate the eggs, reserve the whites and beat the yolks with 55g/2oz of the caster sugar until light in colour and thick. Add the chocolate and butter mixture to the egg yolks, mix together and then, after removing the vanilla pod, stir in the milk Whisk together lightly. In an electric mixer, beat the egg whites to a soft peak and then add the final 30g/l oz sugar Continue beating for a minute or so. Tip in the chocolate/milk/egg mixture, the brandy, breadcrumbs and the chocolate chips. Cut into wedges and serve with thick cream.Steamed chocolate pudding, serves 6400mls/15fI oz milk1 vanilla pod, split lengthways150g/5oz dark, bitter-sweet chocolate, broken into pieces55g/2oz butter85g/3oz caster sugar3 eggs112 tbsp brandy or rum200g/7oz fresh white breadcrumbs85g/3oz dark, bitter-sweet chocolate cut into tiny pieces, or good quality chocolate chipsLightly butter a 1.1 litre/2 pint pudding basin with butter and then dust with a little caster sugar. Carefully run a knife around the edge, being sure not to ruck up the greaseproof underneath, and turn on to a plate. Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tin, still in the water.